All of Italy
Dino Triantafillou from luxury DMC Italian Journeys teaches us an important Ligurian phrase for both lunchtime and lifestyle: le acciughe fanno il pallone or “the anchovies stick together.”
Gastronomic Storytelling:
We all know that proud Ligurians boast the ONLY “real” pesto in Italy. What is less known is that Liguria also prides itself on having the best anchovies in the world! As seafaring people, Ligurians relied on fishing for the base of their diet, and the humble yet tasty and nutritious anchovy can be prepared in a variety of delicious ways. Our favorite is “Anciue de Vernàssa,”which means ‘anchovies of Vernazza’ in local dialect. This gorgeous dish, a juxtaposition of this otherwise unassuming fish, parsley, potato, wine, and full-flavored pomodorini is a true delicacy.
Best Enjoyed:
The best way to savor this dish is dockside in Vernazza – one of the five villages in the CinqueTerre – while relishing the stunning views and listening to “Le acciughe fanno il pallone” by the great singer and poet Fabrizio De Andre`. In the singer’s words, le acciughe fanno il pallone (literally ‘the anchovies form a ball’ or stick together), which is what we say in Liguria when in autumn the anchovies swim to the surface of the sea. On windless days, you can see thousands of them jumping out of the water in sparkling formations. Anciue de Vernassa is best accompanied by a local, refreshing, and highly enjoyable Cinque Terre DOC Vino Bianco.
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Dino Triantafillou of luxury DMC Italian Journeys recounts a once-rustic, now revered dish from Abruzzo: lamb skewers.
Which culinary item exemplifies Abruzzo’s cuisine?
One wouldn’t necessarily think that spiedini di carne, or meat skewers, would be a culinary essential of the lesser-known region of Abruzzo. In fact, arrosticini di Abruzzo sizzled over an open fire is one of the typical dishes of this glorious part of Italy: a region enriched by an abundance of wild, national parks, lakes, and Adriatic coastline.
What links this dish to the region?
This simple plate from the home-grown sheep of the region symbolizes a union between friends and family, which is why it’s very much enjoyed throughout large gatherings and festivals during the Italian Ferragosto holidays in August. Originally a street-food dish, in recent years the arrosticini have been elevated above a simple peasant’s dish to fine cuisine. You’ll find offerings of these lamb skewers on restaurant menus across the region, offered in various and flavorsome guises, such as arrosticini di fegato con salsa piccante: liver skewers with spicy sauce!
I once had the good fortune to ask the renowned celebrity chef Aldo Zilli, who comes from Abruzzo, what would constitute one of the region’s trademark dishes. He unequivocally confirmed that arrosticini are certainly number one on his list, and to wash this delicious barbecued meat down with a glass or two of the famous Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine!
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Dino Triantafillou from Luxury DMC Italian Journeys brings us on a sensory tour through Mazzorbo Island, steeped in both history and agriculture, with fields of artichokes, placid vineyards, and a veritable feast of fine wine and dining.
In a lagoon full of islands, what makes Mazzorbo so special?
Though the lesser-known “treasure” island of Mazzorbo lies quietly in the shadows of its famous sister islands Murano and Burano, its long-established tradition of winemaking renders it unique in the panorama of the Venetian Lagoon. The Venissa Estate produces the native Venetian Dorano grape and also serves as a home for vegetable gardens looked after by nine pensioners, as part of a community project. These locals produce the famous castraure artichokes of Mazzorbo, and the organic vegetables produced on the estate star on the menus of both of Venissa’s up-and-coming restaurants: the trendy Michelin-starred “Venissa Restaurant” and the informal “Osteria Contemporanea.” The eateries reflect the aromas and flavors of the area, and seafood dishes such as cuttlefish in red sauce with polenta and delicious cicchetti morsels are all reinvented with a modern twist.
How did you discover this treasure?
My wife Paola is from the Veneto region, so we are lucky to be able to visit regularly. We are always seeking lesser-known places and experiences to share, and Mazzorbo Island and Venissa are certainly true hidden gems waiting to be discovered.
How can visitors best experience this gem?
Hop aboard a private speedboat to be whisked away to the island, perhaps with a stop in Burano to soak in its unique atmosphere. The summer months are the most suitable time of the year to visit and enjoy the scenery of the island and appreciate its diversity. A lunch visit to the estate works beautifully; alternatively, enjoy a late-afternoon jaunt for a romantic dining experience.
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